The surfer

I didn’t start surfing until I was in my late teens and though I live in the city and don’t surf too often anymore due to distance and injuries, the ideals of surfing form a strong part of my identity: freedom, spirit, soul, adventure and solitude in nature.

This image shot in 2024, was captured using a 25 year old roll of T-max 400 B&W film on my Grandfathers 1966 Minolta Hi-Matic 7s.

Black and white film has the ability to leave time alone. Surfing does the same. Time slows whilst gazing out to sea waiting for the next wave to build on the horizon. And then when on a wave, time becomes irrelevant all altogether.
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© Christian Pearson - The surfer